Franz Josef Glacier

Yesterday it felt like I have been travelling for nearly a month just to see some snow capped mountains. In fact, I have. And yesterday I got what I have come for. Having left Lake Mahinapua and headed for Franz Josef the Southern Alps finally came into view. They aren't the highest range in the world with the vast majority under 12000 feet, but they are saw toothed like Alaskan Peaks and the vertical rise is impressive, just like the Swiss alps.

Franz Josef is a small town at the base of the glacier by that name and a short drive from the Fox glacier. Most of the activities in town revolve around these two glaciers and some of the nearby mirror lakes. I opted not to do any of the glacier hikes having already been on a glacier a few times and Jason was kind enough to take me ice climbing last summer in Alaska. But there was some great day hiking to be done. I took a shuttle out of town and was dropped off at the start of a trail called Alex's Knob. It is a ridge line that tops out at about 3500 feet with great views of the glacier and the surrounding Alps. The climb up took about two and half hours, not bad considering I gained about 2000 feet. The top of the ridge was above the clouds which would come and go below and the views were great. Facing east you could see the glacier and the mountains, facing west you could see the Tasman sea breaking on the beach not far away. I ate lunch on top and had a quick cup of tea then headed back to the bottom. From there I headed off to see how close I could get to the terminal face of the glacier. I got within about a quarter mile when the river turned sharply around a granite spire and cut me off. Oh well, close enough I guess.

The forests that my morning trail climbed through had this prehistoric quality to it. It was full of fern trees, climbing vines, and podocarps. I expected to see some dinosaur lift its head above the vegetation any minute wondering whether or not I was food. It was really amazing, the rock was striated in numerous small layers and moss was thick everywhere. It was unlike the beech forests around Nelson Lakes, and different from the jungle like forests of the north island. The conifer plantations are strangely absent in this area, and the jungle is aptly described as a rain forest. I saw two New Zealand Kea's in flight over me at one point, a native alpine parrot known to eat the weather stripping around car windows. I was also pestered by a bird of some sorts who kept dropping bark on me when I stopped for a quick snack under "his" tree.

Tomorrow it is on to Wanaka with more good scenery and a few stops at mirror lakes to take those postcard photos that will make you all wish you had come with me. Cheers.